Catch and Release

June 23rd, 2009

by Captain Paul Rose

Catch and release

Few resources are unlimited today and fish stocks are no different. Whether you’re on an offshore trip or on the local lakes and streams makes no difference. While it’s perfectly fine to harvest what you catch for consumption according to set limits, a certain amount of angler conservation is prudent. Throwing away freezer burnt fish is a waste. Common sense implies that you take only what you can use and practice catch and release with the rest of your catch or should I say catch and survive?

Catch and release signThe idea of catch and release means to release your catch while optimizing the chance of survival. That all starts with planning ahead. With slot limits, restricted lakes, and tournament regulations, releasing fish is more often than not the rule. Know the regulations regarding size limits and be ready to measure quickly. Have your release tool ready whether it is an arc de-hooker (now required in Florida’s gulf-side areas), forceps or needle-nose pliers. Just make sure it is appropriate for what you’re catching. Time is of the essence when deciding to release. If the fish is going to the live well for delayed release be sure the aerator and pump is functioning. There are also products you can add to live wells to further decrease mortality rates. Dead fish do not win tournaments.

Once a fish is hooked, landing and handling become important to survival. Do not touch any area around the gills or the eyes. Do not squeeze it too hard. Keep the fish in water as much as possible. If the fish must be lifted, support the underside of fish. Many fish are calm when turned upside down or when a wet towel is placed over the head. Fish have a protective slime covering them as a defense mechanism and this should never be removed. During the release, place the fish in the water rather than dropping or throwing it. A fish bouncing around on the deck is never good. I do like a Boga grip for larger fish to avoid fish on the deck.

Everyone has different methods of fishing. If possible, use artificials over live bait. New scent-impregnated lures are as good as live bait in many situations and avoiding live baits helps prevent deep hooking. If you do have a fish hooked deep, you are better to cut the line close then release. A fish that is bleeding is generally the one to keep.

Like your technique and style, tackle choices can also vary. What matters here is appropriate choices. Light tackle does not mean a fight to the death of the fish. Tackle needs to be stout enough to subdue your catch quickly. Long fights and extended battles will leave a fish exhausted and unable to recover despite your release. During the battle, lactic acid builds up and can overwhelm a fish. If water temperatures are high, less oxygen is available. This combination is deadly. Sluggish fish need to be resuscitated by moving them back and forth allowing water to pass over the gills. With this method you will know when a fish is ready to swim off revived. He will simply swim from your hands rather than sinking to the bottom unable to recover.

If you must use live bait, circle hooks should be used. In fact many lures can be rigged with circle hooks. It allows for hook sets in the mouth rather than the gill areas. All hooks should be barbless and can be crimped down or purchased this way. A bonus here is barbless hooks are easy to remove from you, the kids or a pet as well. Also barbless hooks do not reduce hook-ups, contrary to what you may have heard.

I can’t recall who said, “Gamefish are too valuable to be caught only once,” but it is very good foresight. Practice it, and teach it to someone else. If we all do a little, the fish, and the fishing, will be better for it. Have a great day on the water and thanks for saving me one.

Carolinabonefishing.com is a fly fishing guide service owned and operated by Capt. Paul Rose located in Charlotte,NC. Paul offers a saltwater clinic using tailing carp on area lakes as a teaching tool for fly anglers out of a Hellsbay flats skiff. Other destinations include the NC mountains for trout and the Lowcountry for redfish. Paul is also a member of the Southeast Outdoor Press Association. Visit his website at carolinabonefishing.com or call 704-616-6662. For additional information or story ideas, email him at Paul@carolinabonefishing.com.

Preparing Your Boat for Winter

June 23rd, 2009

by Captain Alan Stopko

Depending upon the type of boat one owns and its locale often determines whether we boat throughout the year or put our boat up for the winter. In North Carolina we are fortunate that we have a choice and, in my opinion, some of the best boating days are in the winter.

However, what should I consider doing if I will not be using my boat during the winter? The primary concern is damage caused by water, freezing and rodents. The following are ideas that have worked for me.

Preparation for wintering or off-season:

• Clean the boat by washing & polishing the hull and metal work.

• Clean upholstery with a good vinyl cleaner and conditioner. Repair any rips.

• Check your electric system insuring all systems, lights, switches are working.

• Change the oil and filters on all engines.

• Replace water separating fuel filters.

• Remove and clean gasoline engine flame arrestor with general purpose cleaner. Dry before replacing. This can improve fuel mileage.

• Change your fuel filters. Most boats have more than one.

• Inspect belts and hoses. If belts have cracks or hoses are soft, replace.

• Drain and refill the sterndrive. Make sure to grease the sterndrive gimbal bearing and engine coupler. Check the bellows. This is best done by a licensed mechanic.

• If steering cable has grease fittings, lubricate with grease from a hand-operated grease gun while cable is fully retracted into cable housing.

• Lubricate all steering system and throttle/shift system pivot points with SAE 30 motor oil.

• Add a gas stabilizer to the gas tank. Read instructions carefully for amount to use per gallon. Run engine for approximately 15 minutes to ensure that the additives reach the gas in your fuel lines and engine. I have always filled my tanks to reduce condensation and it seems to have worked well for 35 years and 4 boats. Always started in the spring without a problem.

• Remove interior cushions and jump seats and store in a cool dry place. Otherwise, place cushions on end to allow sufficient ventilation. Removing eliminates the chance of rodents chewing through your seats.

• Clean out the cooler, refrigirator, ice maker and wash down with bleach and water solution. Leave doors open.

• Now is also a good time to check all storage compartments. Remove all the extra weight that has acumulated from stuff we don’t use or need.

• Replace impellers on inboards and sterndrives at least every 24 months.

• Drain porta potti and fresh water system. Add FRESHWATER antifreeze to water tank and porta potti.

• Store the boat in a garage or other facility if available. If not, cover the boat with your mooring cover after the interior has been allowed to dry out. Make sure you have sufficient air movement. Moisture and poor air circulation are the main reasons for rot and mildew.

• To keep your boat dry and mildew-free, install a dehumidifier or use commercially available odor and moisture absorber products.

• Stern drives should be stored in the full down position and perpendicular to the stern. This reduces strain on exhaust bellows and universal joint bellows AS WELL as preventing muskrats from chewing holes that can sink your boat next spring.

• Remove all water in the bilge making sure it’s clean and dry. Water could freeze, expand and crack something.

• The engine should be fogged and all water removed from inside the engine and replaced with antifreeze. This is best done by a licensed mechanic.

• If storing your boat on the trailer you should block the trailer wheels so they are off the ground reducing tire deterioration. Loosen the tie down straps to reduce stress on hull. Leave the drain plug out while canting the boats bow higher than the stern so rainwater will not accumulate in the bilge. This is also a good time to replace wheel bearings, grease the bearings and apply touch up paint.

• Remove the batteries, fill with distilled water only, and store in a warm, dry place. Slow charge once every 45 days.

Most all of these suggestions can be done in a weekend by the average boater. When I boated on the Great Lakes I always used a contractor to winterize my engines. Leave the technical stuff and responsibility to the pros.

This information is strictly for general informational purposes. As with any critical service work, you should consult a qualified mechanic for your boat, engine and systems.

Captain Alan Stopko is a US Coast Guard Master with 100 Ton Rating. His experience includes near coastal, Great Lakes, Chesapeake & Delaware Bays, the Inter-Coastal Waterway and inland lakes and rivers. He is also a US Power Squadron Vessel Safety Examiner and conducts local boating safety and on water training classes. You can reach Captain Stopko at alan@pilotmedia.us, ASTOP@aol.com or by calling 704 895-6993.

Running Aground

June 23rd, 2009

by Captain Alan Stopko

If you spend time driving your boat sooner or later you will run aground. There is an old saying that there are only two types of boaters “those that have run aground and those that will run aground.” Knowledge and preparation will prevent a simple situation from becoming serious and costly.

How to prevent going aground.

Studying the chart ahead of time along the route you plan to take and noting shallow spots is a prime start. Also knowing the current, or planned tide, or current lake levels is very important. When maneuvering your boat, plan to stay in the middle of your side of the channel/between navigation aids. If boating on the ICW religiously use available range markers. Make sure you use both front and back ranges. When close to shore, slow down and, based upon your previous planning, set your depth sounder for a depth contour you are comfortable with and go slow.

Center channel markers

This implies that you know the accurate draft of your boat for the given loading/weight water conditions. What to do when you actually run aground. The most natural and incorrect thing to do is to immediately put the throttle in reverse. You don’t know what damage your boat or passengers may have sustained. You don’t want to pull the boat off into deeper water only to find your taking on water beyond your bilge pump’s capacity.

Here are some suggestions for the time you find yourself run aground:

• Immediately shut off the engine and generator to prevent mud/sand from being sucked into the engine. This could ruin your impeller and other parts.

• Account for all passengers and crew. Are they injured? Most times passengers are thrown forward into seats or the windshield. Do they require first aid? Now is not the time to wish your took the Red Cross CPR/First Aid course. If all are accounted for and safe, have them remain seated while you …

• Check bilges for rising water. This is why it’s important to have pumped your bilges dry before you left the dock. If the water is rising, turn on the bilge pumps, use hand pumps, set up a bucket brigade and/or use a siphon.

• Determine where the water is entering and can you repair/patch/plug it.

• Note the weather, paying particular attend to wind direction, tides and currents. Will a rising tide free your boat shortly or will it put it harder aground. Will a current make it more difficult to get off?

• Put an anchor off the stern if you need to prevent going further aground. Use your dingy, boat cushions or fenders tied together to run the anchor out. Remember if you’re going into the water ALWAYS wear a PFD or life jacket.

• Do you know where deeper water is? Many times a boat yaws after going aground. Take your boat hook or paddle and probe 360 degrees around the boat noting exactly where shallow and deeper water lie. What is the bottom condition rock, sand or vacuum-like mud?

• Now check your propeller, stern drive and rudder for damage. You thought that snorkel, mask and fins were just for your kids.

If your check has shown that your boat is safe/sea worthy without substantial damage then …

• Consider lightening the boat. You can empty your water tank, move gear to the deep-water side of the boat. Heavy coolers can be placed in the water buoyed by PFD’s, cushions or fenders all tied to the boat. Consider off-loading passengers to a standing by boat.

• Make sure your stern drives are down as much as safely possible for maximum propulsion.

• After starting your engines consider rocking the boat from side to side while turning the helm wheel engines in reverse. Watch your engine temperature gage for overheating indicating sediment, clogged filters or damaged impellers.

• If you laided out a stern anchor (150 + feet), have a crew member pull on it while you attempt to back off.

• If all else fails, call TowBoat/US or Sea Tow. That’s what we have unlimited towing insurance for. Be very careful accepting a tow from unknown skippers. Many persons and boats have been severely hurt/damaged from inexperienced Captains or ill equipped boats. EG: do you and the towing boat have the right sized lines with all cleats back plated?

Running aground can be a learning experience and not necessarily traumatic. Plan to prevent it from happening; but when it does, don’t panic. Just institute your “Running Aground Plan”.

Captain Alan Stopko is a US Coast Guard Master with 100 Ton Rating. His experience includes near coastal, Great Lakes, Chesapeake & Delaware Bays, the Inter-Coastal Waterway and inland lakes and rivers. He is also a US Power Squadron Vessel Safety Examiner and conducts local boating safety and on water training classes. You can reach Captain Stopko at alan@pilotmedia.us, ASTOP@aol.com or by calling 704 895-6993.